Radish, like other plants of the cabbage family, can be affected by various diseases and pests. The gardener should know about them in advance in order to take all measures to protect the planting, and in a timely manner to establish the cause of the damage for proper recovery of his site.
Radish Diseases and Control
In conditions of high humidity, especially in the northwestern and northern regions, radish is most susceptible to infection. Its main diseases are listed below.
White rust
In comparison with other cruciferous radishes, it is more often affected by white rust, which is mainly promoted by such factors:
- air temperature about + 15 ° C;
- sudden changes in temperature;
- cool rainy weather with constant fog and / or heavy dew.
White rust is manifested by the following symptoms:
- Leaves on the front side are covered with light green spots. Tissues in these areas gradually thicken, turn brown and die.
- Pustules similar to abscesses form on the inside of the leaf plate. Around them, the fabric swells. When breaking through pustules, you can see a whitish, oily coating, reminiscent of flakes of peeling paint.
- On root crops, if they have already formed, growths appear.
- The stalk branches and deforms, more like a deer antler. If you do not take any measures, in the end, it will dry out and lie on the ground.
If signs of white rust are too pronounced, plantings must be treated with fungicides of biological origin. Among them:
- Ridomil Gold;
- Ditan-M;
- Folicourt.
In the early stages of the development of pathology, you can do with the use of folk remedies. Here is an effective recipe:
- Dissolve in 10 l of water 10-15 g of one of these powders:
- potassium permanganate;
- soda ash or baking soda;
- colloidal sulfur.
- Add 3-5 ml of liquid soap or 10-15 g of soap shavings to the solution so that it is better preserved on the treated plant.
In order to prevent the resulting composition, the radish should be treated 1 time in 7-10 days (or more often with constant rains). To combat rust, the plant needs to be sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.
Powdery mildew
It develops to a greater extent in hot weather or in conditions of sudden changes. The fungus is distributed in several ways:
- by the wind;
- with drops of water;
- with direct contact of diseased plants with healthy ones.
Powdery mildew primarily affects radish leaves and petioles, but in some cases also covers stems. It manifests itself with such symptoms:
- on the affected organs, a whitish or pale gray coating forms, which gradually acquires a light brown color, resembling scattered flour;
- gradually the plaque condenses and turns into sick brown spots with black impregnations;
- the tissues affected by the fungus die and leave holes after themselves;
- the leaves become deformed and quickly dry out, and the bushes begin to noticeably lag behind in growth.
Powdery mildew leads to a decrease in productivity by 50% or more, as well as to a decrease in the quality of root crops.
To prevent the development of powdery mildew, the plant 1 time per week should be sprayed with such means:
- colloidal sulfur solution;
- infusion of wood ash;
- sour milk;
- diluted curdled water;
- decoction of the horsetail root.
If the symptoms of the disease have already manifested, and the fungus is actively developing, chemical preparations should be used against it:
- copper-containing fungicides - Skor, Quadris, Rayek, Fundazim;
- biological products - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz.
Against powdery mildew, you can use old, but effective means - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.
Peronosporosis (downy mildew)
It develops in conditions of prolonged rainfall and mainly affects radish leaves. Pathology develops as follows:
- Chlorotic angular spots appear on the upper side of the leaf plate, which gradually expand, become oily and acquire a light yellow color.
- The leaves turn brown, and on their lower side, in places of zoning of spots, a grayish-purple coating forms.
- Infected tissues die, which greatly inhibits the entire plant or causes its death.
From the time of infection to the complete death of the radish often takes about 10-13 days.
In order to prevent peronosporosis, before planting, the seeds must be warmed up in warm (+ 50 ° C) water, and then lowered for 2 minutes in a cold bath and dried. They can also be kept for 1 hour in infusion of onion or garlic shooters. Among the drugs are effective:
- Bud;
- Energy;
- Humate potassium;
- Fitosporin-M.
During the growing season, it is advisable to spray the radish with a solution of boric acid (10-15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin. If the disease has already affected the bushes, then in the fight against it you need to use the same drugs as in the case of powdery mildew.
Kila
A dangerous fungal disease for all plants of the Cruciferous family is the keel, which affects the root system of the plant. The fungus is transmitted through contaminated seeds, soil, or manure. Earthworms can carry it. The following factors contribute to the development of the disease:
- overconsolidated or acidic soils;
- heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time;
- overly frequent and / or heavy watering;
- long periods of drought;
- high air temperature (+ 25 ° C and more).
The keel does not appear in the aerial part of the plant, but during the incubation period (20-30 days) it affects the roots and root crops. It manifests itself with the following symptoms:
- round growths of various sizes of spherical or spindle-shaped form are formed on the roots;
- less noticeable swelling appears;
- formations gradually darken and decay, which is why the plant noticeably lags in growth, and root crops are smaller or not formed at all.
Kila can destroy more than half of the crop and even completely destroy it. This disease is not treated, so the main emphasis should be on prevention.
The causative agent of keel is particularly viable, therefore, in those areas where the disease was noticed, you can not plant a radish for about 8-10 years. This period can be halved if planted on the site:
- Tomatoes
- potatoes;
- beets;
- legumes.
In order to prevent keel, it is also worth following these measures:
- 2-3 times before sowing, plow the land, sealed it with wood ash, or pour it with lime “milk” (2 cups of hydrated lime per 10 l of water);
- for disinfection, treat the garden bed with chemistry - Carbation (40 g per 10 l) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 l);
- after sowing seeds, pour soil with colloidal sulfur;
- planted bushes spud a couple of times.
Rot
In conditions of high humidity in combination with a low air temperature during the period of growth or storage, the radish can be affected by rot, which is classified into different forms:
- Dry (phomosis). It affects seedlings and seeds. It appears on the roots of the plant with numerous brown spots with black dots. Depressed spots of gray color, also studded with black dots, may appear on young plants. Such formations are especially well seen on petioles with leaves. The tissue in the affected areas becomes rotten, and the stems weaken and break off, which causes the death of the entire plant. Against phomosis, the same measures are used as with peronosporosis.
- Gray. It manifests itself as brown spots on root crops, which immediately become covered with a “fluffy” gray-gray bloom with small black dots. The tissues underneath soften and rot, the stem and petioles acquire a watery structure, the leaves lose their vitality. Fruits affected by gray rot are unsuitable for eating, one disease can be prevented or cured with the help of such measures:
- periodically introduce wood ash into the soil;
- dust the bushes with colloidal sulfur or activated carbon powder;
- spray plants with a solution of mustard powder (50 g per 10 l of water) or iodine (10 drops per 10 l);
- add several crystals of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days;
- near the radish to plant plants that produce natural phytoncides (marigolds, marigold, nasturtiums);
- upon timely detection of gray rot, treat the planting with a solution of a glass of sifted wood ash and the same amount of crushed chalk, 10-12 ml of copper sulfate per 10 l of water;
- in case of severe infection, treat the area with fungicides (Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair).
- White. It appears whitish bloom on root crops, which looks like cotton wool. Gradually, the plants become watery, rot and die. To prevent the development of white rot, the radish should not be watered too often and abundantly. The plant is also worth sprinkling with ash and apply all measures as with gray rot.
With excessively high humidity and air temperature, radish can be affected by red rot (felt disease), which is manifested by purple and brown spots on root crops. At the lesion sites, sclerotia of a dark fungus is formed. Sick plants are subject to destruction.
Bacteriosis (vascular, mucous)
At the stage of formation of root crops, the danger for radish is bacteriosis. Such factors contribute to its development:
- heat;
- increased soil moisture;
- the presence of mechanical damage.
The bacterium lives in plant debris, seeds of infected plants and fresh manure. It maintains vital activity for 2-3 seasons. Raindrops and various insects contribute to its spread.
Bacteriosis is manifested by the following symptoms:
- the veins on the leaves turn black, and then spots of the same color grow around them;
- the sheet plate turns yellow and crumbles;
- petioles are deformed, because of which the plant lags in growth.
In order to prevent the development of a bacterial disease, it is necessary to observe the following measures:
- before planting, disinfect the seeds in hot (45-50 ° C) water, soaking in it for 15-20 minutes;
- 10-12 days after emergence of seedlings, spray seedlings with biological agents that prevent the development of bacterial diseases (Planriz, Trichodermin).
If the radish is already sick, in the early stages against bacteriosis, you can use Binoram Zh or Fitolavin, and at later stages - Fitolavin.
Mosaic
This is a viral disease, the causative agent of which is spread by many insects, including weevils, aphids and ticks. The signs of the mosaic are as follows:
- the leaves on the outside are covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots (round, angular, in the form of strokes), which are located between the veins;
- affected tissues and veins darken;
- infected leaves are deformed, lag behind in growth and become smaller;
- a dark green border appears around the main veins, and the leaves are covered with necrotic whitish spots, gradually causing the death of the plant.
It is impossible to cure the mosaic, therefore, the affected specimens must be removed from the beds and burned to prevent infection of neighboring bushes.
To prevent mosaic, you need to maintain cleanliness in the garden and properly care for the radish. Seeds can be pre-treated with a dressing agent (Rovral, Horus, Topaz).
Blackleg
A fungal disease that rarely affects adult plants, but poses a significant threat to seedlings and young seedlings. The development of the black leg is promoted by such factors:
- sudden changes in temperature;
- excess moisture in soil and air (the result of excessively heavy irrigation);
- poor ventilation or its complete absence (relevant when growing radishes in a greenhouse);
- acidified substrate;
- thickened planting.
The signs of the defeat of the radish with the black leg are as follows:
- the base (the lower parts of the leaf sockets) begins to blacken, becomes thinner and takes on dark tones;
- the upper parts of root crops soften and become soft, whitish-colored mycelium abundantly forms on their surface;
When a diseased root crop is cut, in the places of cuts one can notice strongly darkened tissues.
- the root necks rot and weaken, so they can be pulled out of the soil without much difficulty;
- under its own weight, seedlings lie on the ground, the leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up.
The disease develops very quickly and can deprive the gardener of the entire crop, as it is not treated. However, competent measures can prevent it. They are as follows:
- 3-4 times for planting, pour the plot with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and then sprinkle with a thin layer of sand (2 cm);
- before sowing, soak the seeds in a garlic infusion or dark raspberry potassium permanganate solution;
- sow seeds at the optimum time, since a deficiency of light and low temperatures will adversely affect the immunity of seedlings;
- sprinkle the bases of the appeared stems with crushed chalk or charcoal, and dust the plants themselves with sifted wood ash;
- For irrigation regularly use mild solutions of Fitosporin-M or Bactofit, as well as infusions of onion husks or marigold greens.
If several diseased seedlings are found on the garden bed, reduce watering to a minimum to dry the soil, loosen the area and add fungicide (Trichodermin, Gliokladin, Barrier).
Radish pests and protection against them
If damage occurs at the growth points of young plants, the leaves become covered with holes and lag behind in development, it is likely that pests attacked the radish.
Cruciferous fleas
Small (with a diameter of up to 3 mm) bugs of blue and black matte color, which can be covered with yellow stripes along the body. They have rear jumping legs, like a grasshopper, therefore they have good jumping ability and are able to quickly overcome significant distances.
After wintering, adult bugs appear in unprotected plant debris in early spring, first eat wild-growing plants of the Cruciferous family, and then settle on seedlings of cultivated plants, including radish. Bugs are most active from early morning to 13:00 and from 16:00 to 18:00, but their activity decreases sharply in the heat and high humidity due to frequent rains.
The danger of bedbugs is as follows:
- They eat the tops, leaving small sores on the leaf plate and severely damaging it. Heavily damaged plants dry out.
- Young seedlings are completely eaten up to the growth of real leaves, leaving behind only a small part of the submuscular knee - the stump. In this regard, they pose a great threat during the first 14 days after crop emergence. The most susceptible to them are Chinese and Japanese radishes.
- Females lay eggs in the ground or on the leaves of a plant. Larvae settle on young roots and feed on them, causing planting death.
To scare away the cruciferous flea from its landing, you can use the following measures:
- in the places where the seedlings appear, sprinkle the soil with a mixture of sifted ash, crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper and mustard powder;
- tighten the bed with white air-permeable material (the greenhouse effect will scare off the flea, since it does not tolerate heat);
- during the vegetative period, radish every 5-7 days to treat with infusion of dandelion leaves, tops of tomatoes or potatoes, previously diluted in water at the rate of 25-30 ml per 10 l;
- put a naphthalene barrier around the perimeter of the garden, as the pest does not tolerate the smell of vinegar.
If the fleas have already settled in the garden, the following remedies can be used against them:
- Wood Ash Solution. To prepare it, dilute 50 g of grated laundry soap in 1 tbsp. l boiling water and mix with 2 cups of resin. The mixture is infused at night, and in the morning strain and use to spray the radish immediately after watering. Perform the procedure every 4 days.
After watering or rain, the planting should be treated with tansy powder, tobacco dust, celandine or ash.
- Chemicals. With a massive invasion of fleas, it is best to use such drugs:
- Actellik;
- Actara;
- Inta Vir;
- Lightning;
- Decis;
- Sherpa;
- Fufanon;
As an alternative to chemicals, flea shampoo for pets (40-50 ml per 10 l of water) can be used.
Cabbage fly
This is an ash-gray fly with a small body (5-7 mm long) and transparent wings, which refers to the type of flower flies. Its mass raid begins with the flowering of bird cherry (the second half of May) and ends after the flowering of lilacs (early June).
An adult feeds on nectar and pollinates plants, therefore, in itself is not dangerous for radish. However, it lays eggs in the upper layers of the soil (under the radish plantings), and the white worm-shaped larvae hatching from them actively attack the plant:
- feed on the lower parts, both outside and inside;
- damage the stems;
- penetrate into the central root or root neck and make passages, which can cause the death of the plant;
- gnawing delicate root crops and cause their deformation.
As a result of attacks of the larvae, the leaves of the plant acquire an unnatural bluish-purple tint and dry out, and the bush itself appears oppressed.
In order to prevent the invasion of the cabbage fly, the following measures should be taken against it:
- plant plants with a sharp aroma (marigolds, celery, parsley, coriander) along the perimeter of the bed and in the aisles;
- to stretch completely landing net with small cells (the fly will not be able to overcome such an obstacle);
- mulch the bed with sawdust, wood shavings or other materials with a rough texture (or cover with non-woven material so that the fly could not lay eggs);
- 3-5 days after emergence, sprinkle the radish at the base with a mixture of equal amounts of tobacco dust and lime or dry bay leaf powder;
- treat planting with a composition of 5 ml of ammonia or vinegar essence in 10 liters of water.
If the fly has already laid eggs, and the larvae infect the radish, the diseased specimens must be removed from the site and burned, and the soil treated with insecticides (Antio, Rovikurt, Karate, Iskra-Bio).
White Butterfly Caterpillars
As in the case of the cabbage fly, the white butterfly does not pose a threat to the radish, as it feeds on the nectar of flowers (alfalfa, dandelion, clover). However, it lays eggs on the soil and leaves, from which dangerous green-yellow caterpillar larvae subsequently appear. Their first appearance falls at the end of June, and the second - in September.
These larvae are very voracious and eat leaves over several days, which is why they twist and become covered with oblong holes. In the worst case, the caterpillars destroy all the greens and cause deviations in the development of root crops.
To scare away the whites from the garden with a radish, the gardener can use the following tricks:
- scatter halves of eggshells in the bed (insects will take them as relatives, and in order to avoid competition they will look for a new place for laying eggs);
- tighten the bed with a fine wire mesh or place traps next to it - sticky tapes for flies, cut plastic bottles with sugar or honey syrup;
- add 2-3 drops of lavender essential oil or any citrus to the water for irrigation;
- sprinkle the plants densely with sifted kiln ash to contaminate them (white loves cleanliness, so it will not lay eggs on dirty leaves);
- treat plantings with mustard infusion (30 g of dry powder of mustard and salt, 5 g of ground red pepper in a bucket of water, insist 2 days);
- powder the soil with wood resin, which is pre-mixed with spices - cinnamon, ginger, saffron or mustard;
- when butterflies appear on the garden, immediately scare them away by watering the garden:
- herbal infusion (wormwood, tops of tomatoes, rosemary, basil, sage);
- chemical - Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide.
If egg clutches have already been identified on the back of the leaves, they must be destroyed immediately. If traces of caterpillars are found on the garden, you need to use insecticides - Kinmiks, Sumi-Alfu, Actellik.
Crucifer bug
On the radish, you can easily find this pest, as its small body has a spotty color and red-black or orange stripes contrasting with the bright green leaves of the plant.
Bedbugs overwinter under plant debris, and with the arrival of warm weather, cruciferous weeds fly out and affect the weeds. When their cultural representatives appear, they move to them and cause harm:
- They suck juice from the root, especially in hot, dry weather. At the places of mechanical damage, “wounds” are left, which gradually become “islands” of dead tissue with a yellowish border.
- Females lay eggs on the back of the leaves. Hatching individuals spend the winter in the tops and other plant debris, and in the second half of April or early May they leave their hibernation.
They manifest their maximum activity until August, eating leaf juice. Because of this, small dots appear on the lumen, which turn into spots, causing the death of leaves and weakening of plants.
To scare away the pest, it is worth planting a tansy around the garden bed or regularly spraying the plant with the infusion of its greenery. In addition, tampons dipped in kerosene or turpentine can be thrown between rows.
If bedbugs have already been found on the plant, then against them you can apply such means:
- dope or bleached infusion (soak 500 g of leaves in a bucket of water for 12 hours, and then add 30 g of grated laundry soap);
- infusion of onion husks or chamomile pharmacy;
- insecticides - Fosbetsid, Belofos, Aktaru.
Cabbage Moth
The nondescript butterfly of light brown color, which feeds on nectar, is therefore harmless in itself, however it cannot be ignored for two reasons:
- spreads many diseases that pose a threat to radish;
- lays on the leaves larvae that feed on their juice and eat out longitudinal tunnels in the tissues, showing the greatest activity in the heat with prolonged absence of rainfall.
As a result of the defeat, the leaf plates turn pale and dry, which threatens the death of the entire plant.
If pests are found on the bed, you need to examine the back of the leaves and the middle of the outlet. The discovered caterpillars must be collected and destroyed, and the eggs washed off with a solution of green soap. If severe lesions are found, then it will be necessary to use insecticides - Ambush, Nurel D or Talkord.
To reduce the population of moths in the garden, you can use a trap - apply grease, glue, pine resin or other drying substance to the plywood or yellow cardboard. Butterflies fly to yellow and fall into the trap.
Cabbage fire
The butterfly is dirty gray with vague brown spots and stripes on the wings, which leads a nocturnal lifestyle, so it is almost impossible to find it on time in the garden.
A butterfly lays eggs on the underside of leaves. Yellow caterpillars hatch from them with light lateral spots, which are dangerous for the radish - they scrape off the upper layer of tissue from the leaves and gradually gnaw through them, leaving “notches” for various infections to penetrate.
To scare away the pest, pieces of synthetic material saturated with kerosene or tar can be spread out over the garden. If egg clutches are found, the plant should be treated with insecticides. Good results give:
- Ripcord;
- Bitoxibacillin;
- Sumicidin;
- Dendrobacillin;
- Ripcord;
- Gomelin;
- Anometrine.
Rapeseed sawfly
A small (up to 6-8 mm long) insect, the body and limbs of which have a bright saffron hue, and the head is lacquered black. He eats almost all the leaves of the plant, leaving only the petioles. As a result, the radish dries without forming fruit.
In addition, female sawflies pierce the lower sides of the leaves and lay eggs on them. Due to this, the ovipositor resembles a notch saw. Hatched false caterpillars also eat the tops, leaving only veins behind. They are more active in hot weather, but precipitation and cooling are detrimental to them.
A large invasion of sawflies can destroy 80-95% of the total crop.
In order to prevent, you can adhere to the following measures:
- soak the seeds in insecticide solution before sowing (Karate Zeon, Actellik);
- apply Bitoxibacillin against adults;
- to process crops with infusion of chamomile, needles, tansy or aconite;
- to create bait plants from the Cruciferous family (when the pest moves to them, mow and burn the grass);
- to attract beneficial insects to the site, for example, a wasp rider.
At the initial stage of propagation of the caterpillars can be collected manually (preferably in rainy weather) and destroyed. The plant can also be sprayed daily with a solution of soda or dry mustard (50 g per 10 liters of water). With a severe defeat, you will need to use chemicals - Kinmix, Fury, Mospilan, Arrivo.
Rapeseed Blossom
A bug of a lacquer-black color with brown paws, which hibernates in the upper layers of the soil and comes out when the air temperature warms up to + 10 ... + 12ºC. In the absence of rape in the garden, he attacks the radish, sucking life juices from it.
Crop losses from the invasion of rapeseed cannabis can range from 20 to 70%. It causes maximum damage from the second half of May until the end of June, since it is during this period that the peak of its activity falls.
Folk remedies will not help get rid of the pest, so you have to use insecticides:
- Karate Zeon;
- Kinmix;
- Fastak.
To distract the bug from the radish, you can plant 2-3 bushes of rapeseed or colza near the beds.
Slug
Gray-beige mollusks that feed on tops and root parts protruding above the surface of the soil. They lead a nocturnal lifestyle, and during the day they hide under the boards or plant debris.
The following signs indicate the defeat of radish by slugs:
- large holes appear on the sheet plate;
- through the roots, through “tunnels” are visible;
- sticky traces are visible on the plant, which are cast in silver in the sun.
Slugs can completely destroy young seedlings and destroy the entire crop. If they attack an adult plant, then I cause a decrease in keeping quality and presentability of root crops.
To prevent the invasion of the pest, you must follow these preventive measures:
- prepare several traps on the bed - dig holes and fill them with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, last year's compost or jam (half-collected slugs should be collected in the afternoon and destroyed);
- create a “barrier” from the thick layer of one of the following ingredients along the perimeter of root crops:
- crushed walnut or egg shells;
- lime;
- ground chalk;
- sand;
- wood ash.
- arrange fresh nettle or wormwood leaves around the beds and in the aisles, as well as plant spicy greens and other plants with a sharp aroma;
- attract natural enemies of slugs - birds, frogs, hedgehogs.
If traces of slugs have already been identified on the bed, the plant should be sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or a solution of dry mustard. In case of a large invasion of pests, use chemicals (Metu, Thunderstorm, Sludge).
Aphid
A small insect of yellow-green color, which does not move independently, but is carried by garden ants. Aphids attack the planting in whole colonies, stick leaves on the inside and suck out their vital juices. Tissues at the lesion sites are discolored, and on the lumen they look like small translucent specks of beige color.
As a result of damage to aphids, the leaves of the radish are deformed, turn yellow and wilt, weakening the plant.
To scare away aphids from the beds, it is worth following these measures:
- destroy anthills, for example, using the drug Muratsid;
- plant near the radish plants with strong odors:
- marigold;
- calendula
- chamomile;
- spicy herb;
- onion;
- garlic;
- fennel;
- lavender.
Many of these cultures are good honey plants that attract the natural aphid enemy - the ladybug.
- 1 time in 8-10 to spray the beds with infusion of the above plants, dried tobacco leaves, orange peels, needles or mustard powder.
If aphids have already been found on the radish, it must be washed off with a solution of household, green potash or tar soap. After 30 minutes, you need to wash it off with clean water and apply the same infusions as for prophylaxis, but carry out several sprayings with an interval of 6-8 hours.
If the plant has undergone a massive invasion of aphid colonies, it is more efficient to use general-acting insecticides:
- Confidor Maxi;
- Admiral
- Inta Vir;
- Spark Bio;
- Tanrek.
Babanuha
A shiny little bug of dark blue color, which winters in the upper layers of the soil, under manure or plant heaps. When it gets warmer in the garden, they climb up, gnawing leaves and leaving eggs in the same place. Dirty yellow larvae hatch from them, which also eat plants.
Due to the babanuha, the radish weakens and stops in development. In addition, the pest can transfer infections from diseased plants to healthy bushes, significantly reducing the yield of full-fledged root crops.
Against a bug it is inexpedient to use alternative methods. It is better to collect it manually, and with a large invasion - spray the culture with Actellik.
General prevention
In order to prevent the defeat of the radish by diseases and pests, the following preventive measures should be observed:
- comply with crop rotation rules, planting crops in the same place with an interval of at least 3-4 years;
- remove infected plant debris from the site and burn them;
- dig deeply in the autumn season to destroy pests wintering in the soil;
- liming acidic soils, which is especially important for disease prevention;
- destroy weed grass by regularly weeding the site and loosening row spacings;
- apply mineral fertilizers to the soil, dust the bed with ash and tobacco dust.
Radish is an unpretentious culture, but it requires compliance with a number of agricultural technology rules to prevent infection by diseases and pests. If the culture weakens, lags in growth and becomes covered with characteristic spots, you need to establish their cause precisely and take all necessary measures to improve the planting and get a crop of delicious root crops.